Thank you to @xxxx (Jacoby) for linking to this article about a 1,200-foot ti leaf lei draped across Pololū Valley to symbolize protection from overdevelopment. What a beautiful gesture.
Passing the car ferry heading to Setúbal as we are on the other ferry heading to Comporta. A very small boat with a couple of people fishing from it, sits between us.
In Odeceixe
We visited the town of Odeceixe just over a week ago. I was tasked with finding the destination for the day, somewhere where we had not visited and not far or on the coast. So I picked Odeceixe at random.
At first glance there appeared nothing special or unique about the town. When we arrived it seemed very quiet. Situated about 3km from the coast there were few people around. We skirted the edge of town, and after two hours of driving I parked by what looked like some fields on one side which stretched to the coast, although out of view. To the other side was a small town square with statues of people walking and bicycling. At that moment these metallic statues seemed a little incongruous. I could see some similar statues in the distance. The air was quiet and peaceful. I appreciated being there.
Feeling hungry and not really wanting to drive too much further we decided to head to the coast on the hope of finding a bite to eat. A narrow road, also designated as a cycle path, took us there. As we started off, we noticed walkers hiking across the fields. We passed more on the road.
The road twisted and wound round the low hills that bounded a grassy field. I imagine that this was either a carved river valley, a small river could be seen, or this was an ancient glacial ravine? We finally arrived at a small collection of houses situated at the top of cliffs above the Atlantic ocean. Happily some of those buildings served food. We found a place to park the car and got out to walk round to one of the cafés. There was bright sun light and a bracing wind. The road and path cut round the top of the cliffs back to the small habitation, giving a clear view to the beach below with the Atlantic waves breaking on it.
We found a place to eat, outside but out of the wind. While we ate hikers continued to show up. These were not just casual walkers. They had proper hiking boots on, backpacks and hiking poles. They were here for a good walk, not a casual amble.
Warm and replenished, we walked back to the car and drove slowly back the way we came to Odeceixe. Again on the way we passed more people hiking. Odeceixe appears to be known as a place for serious walkers to come to…them and I guess cyclists as well going by the metal statues.
I enjoyed our short time in Odeceixe and could have stayed longer. It is one of those places that doesn’t appear to get any mention in books about the area, but for that day it felt like I had stumbled across a hidden gem. Nothing special necessarily. Nothing that cannot be seen elsewhere. But for that day Odeceixe left an impression on me. It reminds me of other slightly out of the way places, at least out of the way to those who don’t know of them, that I have come across while traveling. I don’t know if I will, but I’d like to return.
🐍 I saw my first snake here in Portugal a couple of days ago. It was making a quick dash, or quick sliver across the road.
Some more paintings from artist Veronika Blyzniuchenko. The stars in the lower left are sponsored by visitors, a percentage of the sponsorship going towards the restoration of the Basilica.
These three men came by to play for us (those eating) while we ate lunch. They had been making their way along the restaurants and coffee shops by the river here in Alcácer. I do not know what the occasion was? Unfortunately there is no singing in this video, though I am fascinated by the instrument the musician on the left is playing.
I returned last night exhausted from a day in Lisbon. After a late dinner I could barely keep my eyes on and ended up turning in early, falling asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. I have not been so tired for a long time, and this morning was thinking back over the day. I think that it was my hayfever that tired me out. Although I took some medicine to help myself through the day, at best they dial down the symptoms a smidgen.
I think that my exhaustion came from my body having to deal with this constant attack from unseen elements - the seasonal pollen and dust in the air. All the while I’m also trying to function normally in the world.
I’m fortunate living in Maui in that hayfever is not an issue. I don’t get it there. Visiting Northern American towns or Europe in the summer reminds me that it is not far away.
The Beauty is a Choice - A Lisbon Art Exhibition
My wife and I were in Lisbon yesterday and met up with an old Portland friend who had been living Portugal for eight years. After lunch she took us to an art exhibition at the Estrela Basilica, by a young Ukrainian artist, Veronika Blizniuchenko.
It is not an easily found exhibition, situated as it is in the former convent behind the Basilica. While visiting the Basilica, Bluzniuchenko noticed the convent from its rooftop gallery. She approached the Basilica’s authorities and asked if she could use it as a studio and exhibition space. To her surprise, they agreed. If you are in Lisbon, I recommend hunting down the exhibition. You enter via a side door to the Basilica’s right and then following a maze of corridors to the convent.
The exhibition is called, “The Beauty is a Choice.” When we visited, no one else was there and the former convent offered a lovely refuge from the heat and bustle of Lisbon. Bluzniuchenko walked around her considerable exhibition with us, answering any and all questions and explaining what inspired her. She is a lovely person.
Her generosity of time was even more of note, as when we showed up she shared with us that her home town in the Ukraine had been the object of a new Russian offensive. That was very much on her mind as she painted and spent time with us.
Through her work Bluzniuchenko is also helping to raise money for the restoration of the convent and may, with the help of our Portland friend and again subject to the authorities agreement, do some work on the gardens there.
This painting Bluzniuchenko is gifting to the Basilica.
We found this very hidden Gelato shop today. What a gem it is. The owner trained in Italy and now makes his own. Delicious. Repeat visit assured.
Highways in the sky.
One thing that I forgot to mention in my last post about running is the amount of walking that I have been doing since setting off to Europe over a month ago. I have done a lot of walking. For one the built environment makes it easier to just walk where we need to go. Second, I like exploring on foot. I believe that I get to know a place better by pounding the streets.
So while I might not have kept the running up, I’d like to think that I have been keeping the exercise going. …At least that’s the story that I am telling myself!
I haven’t written an update on my progress with the Watch to 5K program for over a month now. After being bitten by exhaustion from pushing too hard on Week 4, I had not felt like continuing. Or maybe I should say that I wanted to continue, but the motivation had taken a bruising. Knowing that I was headed back to Britain at the beginning of April for my mother’s 90th birthday, I thought that being abroad might spur enthusiasm, especially as my mother has a huge park on her doorstep.
No such luck.
I now find myself in Portugal. My wife was starting with a fitness coach here on Tuesday and I decided to use that happening to put my running shoes back on. I went back to the start of Week 3 of the program. Not a complete restart, but I also did not want to dive back into that difficult Week 4.
Running felt easier here. I don’t know why? Had I learnt from my earlier lessons? Was it running in less familiar surroundings, and not feeling as though I had to prove anything? Certainly before I had been working on the unstated rule that each run had to be a faster and/or further run. I was racing against myself. This time I did not push myself. I just ran at what felt like a smooth, consistent pace.
The result of that?
I felt better at the end. I was not exhausted, but felt as though I had got some running practice in. The distance that I covered was less than when I was running back home, but I was good with that. I am trying to telling myself quality over quantity.
The challenge now?
To keep this up with the hay fever season upon us. Time outside can quickly turn difficult at best, managing itchy eyes and tickling nose. If I am running this can be over quickly, or if I’m lucky, little happens.
I’ll be watching this space!
Church bell towers at dusk, complete with nesting storks.
🤧 Hayfever is no fun, even if I do try and put on a brave face when the attacks come.
We have just been to the supermarket and I was considering moving in permanently. The air conditioning filtered everything irritable out of the air, and for a few minutes I felt as though I was back to my normal self.
⚽ I think that the local, favourite football (soccer) team won last night? Just as I was about to go to sleep, normally a very quiet time here, car horns and fireworks started going off.
Over the rooftops.
Taken in Sintra about a week ago. In the grounds of Biester Palace, a gem to visit to escape the crowds.
😮💨 I’m exhausted and am not entirely sure why? There was a lot of walking around Lisbon over the last couple of days for sure, and I slept well last night.
Yes, but that was sleeping off yesterday’s walking. Tonight will be an early night.
🚶♂️ It was as a joy walking through the streets of Lisbon early this morning as the world woke up. Few people around. A new day starting.
Late afternoon Lisbon light.
